How to Plant Strawberries (US Guide)

Can you plant strawberries now?

Plant bare-root strawberries in early spring — 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost date — when the soil is workable but not frozen. In Zones 3–7, this is February through April. In Zones 8–10, plant in October or November for a spring harvest that avoids the region’s harsh summer heat.

Strawberries are one of the few spring crops where earlier is genuinely better. A plant established before the last frost date has weeks of cool-weather root development before summer heat arrives. That head start builds the crown and root system that supports a strong first-year runner crop and a productive second-year harvest.

The Penn State Extension recommends planting as early as 6 weeks before the last frost in the mid-Atlantic region. University of Minnesota Extension extends that to 8 weeks for northern zones where springs are short and summers arrive abruptly.

Types of strawberries to know before you plant

You need to choose the right type before buying. The type determines planting timing, fruiting pattern, and how you manage runners.

June-bearing varieties dominate US commercial production and most home gardens in colder zones. They produce the largest individual berries and the heaviest single harvest. In a 25-foot row, a mature June-bearing planting yields 20–25 quarts of berries in a 3-week window each June. Varieties: ‘Earliglow’, ‘Honeoye’, ‘Chandler’, ‘Jewel’, ‘Allstar’.

Everbearing varieties produce a spring crop and a smaller fall crop. Total annual yield is lower than June-bearing but spread across a longer season. Better for gardeners who want steady supply rather than a single large harvest. Varieties: ‘Ozark Beauty’, ‘Seascape’, ‘Fort Laramie’.

Day-neutral varieties fruit continuously from May through October regardless of day length. Individual berry size is smaller than June-bearing but the season is longest. Recommended for containers and small-space gardens. Varieties: ‘Albion’, ‘Tristar’, ‘Tribute’.

For more on everbearing varieties and their advantages by zone, see our everbearing strawberries guide.

What you need before planting

Bare-root vs. potted plants

Bare-root plants are the standard for strawberry planting in the US. They arrive in bags or boxes with no soil, just damp packing material around the roots. They look dead — they are dormant, not dead. Bare-root plants are cheaper, ship better, and establish faster than potted plants.

Soak bare-root crowns in water for 20–30 minutes before planting to rehydrate the roots. Do not soak more than an hour — longer soaking can damage roots.

Potted plants from local nurseries are convenient and can be planted through spring and early summer, but they cost 3–5 times more per plant. Use potted plants if you missed the bare-root window or want specific varieties only available locally.

Soil preparation

Strawberries need:

• Well-draining soil (standing water after rain = problem)
• Slightly acidic pH: 5.5–6.5 (test with a soil pH kit before planting)
• At least 6 inches of workable depth; 12 inches is better
• Organic matter: work in 2–3 inches of compost before planting

Sandy loam is the ideal soil texture. Heavy clay needs amendment with compost and coarse sand. Raised beds solve most soil problems — a raised bed with quality fill gives you full control over drainage and pH.

Our how to start a vegetable garden covers soil prep fundamentals that apply directly to strawberry beds. For raised bed construction details, our raised bed garden plans includes dimensions that work well for strawberry rows.

Avoid planting where these crops grew in the last 3 years: tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, or eggplant. These share Verticillium wilt with strawberries, a soilborne fungal disease that kills plants and persists in soil for years. Also avoid planting near wild strawberries, which carry diseases that spread to cultivated types.

How to plant strawberry crowns

The correct planting depth is the single most important factor in strawberry establishment. Set the crown — the compact central stem from which leaves emerge — at exactly soil level.

Step-by-step planting

1. Dig a hole wide and deep enough to spread roots without bending them. Most bare-root crowns need a hole 6–8 inches wide and 6 inches deep.

2. Make a mound of soil in the center of the hole, about 2–3 inches high. The roots will drape over this mound.

3. Position the plant with the crown at the top of the mound, at soil level. Drape roots evenly down the sides of the mound. Do not curl or fold roots.

4. Backfill soil around the roots, firming gently. Check crown position: the topmost roots should be just below soil level; the crown itself — where leaves emerge — should sit at exactly soil level.

5. Water thoroughly to settle the soil.

6. Check and reposition after watering — soil settling often pulls the crown slightly down. If it dropped more than ½ inch, lift the plant gently and add soil beneath.

Crown depth reference

Spacing

• June-bearing: 18–24 inches apart in rows 3–4 feet apart. Closer spacing fills in faster but reduces airflow and increases disease pressure. Farther spacing gives runners room to establish daughter plants.
• Everbearing: 12–18 inches apart in rows 2.5–3 feet apart. These produce fewer runners; closer spacing is fine.
• Day-neutral: 12 inches apart. Minimal runner production; space can be tight.

Planting zones and timing chart

First-year management: the most important season

Pinch the flowers (June-bearing varieties)

Remove all flowers from June-bearing strawberry plants in their first season. Every blossom that opens is energy not going into root development and runner production. A plant that fruits in year one has half the root mass of a plant that did not fruit in year one.

This is counterintuitive. You just planted strawberries. You want berries. But year-one fruit comes at the cost of year-two yield. Nearly every university extension program — Penn State, Cornell, University of Minnesota, NC State — gives the same advice: remove flowers the first year from June-bearing types.

Everbearing and day-neutral varieties can produce a light fall crop in year one without significantly impacting establishment. Remove the spring flowers but allow fall bloom if the plants look healthy and well-established by August.

Runner management

June-bearing strawberries send runners — horizontal stems with daughter plants at the tip. In the first year, managing runners determines how quickly your bed fills in.

The matted row system (most common in home gardens): Let runners spread freely and root where they land. By fall of year one, your planting row is a dense mat 18–24 inches wide. This maximizes berry production in year two but limits air circulation. Annual renovation (mowing and thinning after harvest in year two) keeps the bed productive.

Spaced plant system: Pin runners 6–8 inches from the mother plant and remove any runners that extend beyond. Maintains spacing for maximum airflow and individual plant size. More labor-intensive but produces larger berries and lower disease pressure.

Watering in year one

Strawberries need 1–1.5 inches of water per week during the growing season. In the first two weeks after planting, water daily if rainfall is under ½ inch per day — the shallow roots of newly planted crowns dry out quickly.

After establishment (3–4 weeks), check soil moisture 2–3 inches down. Irrigate when that depth feels dry. Overhead irrigation is effective but wets the foliage, increasing disease pressure. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses keep water at the root zone and foliage dry.

Fall preparation and winter protection

In Zones 3–6, strawberry crowns can be killed by sustained soil temperatures below 15°F. Winter mulching is not optional in these zones — it is the difference between a productive second-year crop and starting over in spring.

Timing: Apply winter mulch after the soil has frozen — typically late November in Zone 6, early November in Zones 4–5. Mulching too early traps heat and encourages late growth that is then damaged by hard freezes.

Mulch material: Straw (not hay — hay carries weed seeds) is the traditional and best choice. Apply 3–4 inches deep, covering plants completely. Pine needles work in pine-producing regions. Shredded leaves work but compact and may need supplementing.

Spring removal: Remove mulch in early spring when nights are still below 30°F but the crowns are beginning to show new growth. Pull mulch aside but leave it between rows — it can be pulled back over plants if a late frost threatens flowers, which are the most frost-sensitive part of the plant. Strawberry flowers die at 28°F; new leaves and crowns are more cold-tolerant.

For mulch selection and depth guidance, our best mulch for vegetable garden covers straw, wood chip, and other common mulch materials and their performance in vegetable garden settings.

Common planting mistakes

Companion planting for strawberries

Several plants improve strawberry performance when grown nearby. Research from UC Davis Extension found that French marigolds planted adjacent to strawberry rows reduced strawberry pest pressure by 30% in field trials.

Effective companions:

• French marigolds (Tagetes patula): Suppress nematodes; deter aphids
• Borage: Repels tomato hornworm and aphid populations; adds calcium to soil as it decomposes
• Garlic and chives: Deter slugs and aphids around the planting perimeter
• Thyme and sage: Ground-level plants that provide refuge for beneficial predatory insects

Avoid planting near brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, kale), fennel, or nightshades. For a full companion planting chart by crop, our strawberry companion plants guide covers beneficial and antagonistic species in detail.

For building a productive vegetable garden around strawberry beds, our companion planting guide covers polyculture principles that apply across the whole kitchen garden.

Authoritative sources

The National Gardening Association publishes strawberry production data referenced in this guide. Penn State Extension Strawberry Production Guide covers commercial practices applicable to home gardens at scale.