Arborvitae: Care and Growing Guide
Arborvitae are fast-growing evergreens for privacy screens and hedges in Zones 3–8. This guide covers varieties, spacing, planting, and US care tips.
Key takeaways
- Emerald Green arborvitae grows 10–15 feet tall and 3–4 feet wide — the best columnar choice for tight side yards and fence lines
- Space Emerald Green 3–4 feet on center for a solid privacy screen within 5–7 years
- Arborvitae need full sun to stay dense — fewer than 6 hours of daily sun causes thinning from the inside out
- Bagworm is the single biggest threat to arborvitae in the eastern US; remove bags by hand in fall and winter
- Green Giant arborvitae grows 3–5 feet per year and reaches 50–60 feet — it is not a yard tree, it is a large tree
What is arborvitae?
Arborvitae (Thuja species) are fast-growing evergreen conifers used for privacy screens, windbreaks, and foundation plantings across the eastern and midwestern US. Emerald Green arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Smaragd’) is the most widely sold cultivar, valued for its narrow, columnar shape and year-round green color.
The name “arborvitae” means “tree of life” in Latin. Several Thuja species grow in the US, but two dominate US nurseries: Thuja occidentalis (American arborvitae), native to the northeastern US and Canada, and Thuja plicata (western red cedar), native to the Pacific Northwest. Most backyard privacy screens use Thuja occidentalis cultivars.
Arborvitae are sold at every major US garden center and big-box store from March through October. They solve a specific problem — visible neighbors, road noise, wind — faster than most other trees or shrubs. A 3-gallon Emerald Green planted today will provide meaningful privacy within 4–5 years.
Arborvitae varieties for US gardens
The right variety depends on your space, your USDA zone, and how tall you need the screen.
| Variety | Height | Width | Growth rate | Best use | Zones |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Emerald Green (‘Smaragd’) | 10–15 ft | 3–4 ft | 6–9 in/year | Narrow screens, fence lines | 3–8 |
| Green Giant | 50–60 ft | 12–20 ft | 3–5 ft/year | Large property windbreaks | 5–9 |
| ’Steeplechase’ | 20–30 ft | 5–6 ft | 1–2 ft/year | Medium screens, faster than Emerald | 5–8 |
| ’Spring Grove’ | 20–30 ft | 6–8 ft | 1–2 ft/year | Wider screens, more pyramidal | 5–8 |
| ’Holmstrup’ | 6–8 ft | 2–3 ft | 3–4 in/year | Small gardens, slow grower | 3–8 |
| ’Rheingold’ | 4–5 ft | 3–4 ft | 2–3 in/year | Accent plant, golden foliage | 3–7 |
| ’Nigra’ (Dark American) | 20–30 ft | 6–8 ft | 8–12 in/year | Screens where dark color preferred | 3–7 |
Emerald Green vs Green Giant is the most common choice US homeowners face. Emerald Green stays manageable at 10–15 feet and fits tight side yards. Green Giant grows 50–60 feet and 12–20 feet wide — it is a large tree that belongs on large lots or rural properties, not 6-foot side yards.
‘Steeplechase’ is the best option for homeowners who want something taller than Emerald Green but more narrow than Green Giant. It grows 1–2 feet per year, reaches 20–30 feet, and stays 5–6 feet wide.
Compare arborvitae to other columnar evergreens in our guides to Blue Point Juniper and Taylor Juniper — both are deer-resistant alternatives that work in similar conditions.
What USDA zones do arborvitae grow in?
Emerald Green arborvitae is hardy in USDA Zones 3–8, making it suitable for most of the eastern half of the US. Green Giant is hardy in Zones 5–9. Both struggle in the humid Gulf Coast heat of Zone 10 and warmer.
The northern limit for Thuja occidentalis is Zone 3 — it is native to areas with brutal Minnesota winters and survives -40°F. The southern limit is Zone 8 in the East. In Zones 8–9 of the Southeast, arborvitae develop fungal disease problems and decline faster than in cooler climates.
In the arid West (Zones 5–8 west of the Rockies), arborvitae grow well where irrigation is available. Without supplemental water in dry climates, they struggle. In the Pacific Northwest, Thuja plicata (western red cedar, also called western arborvitae) is the better-adapted species.
Check your zone before purchasing. See our planting zones guide for the complete USDA zone map by state.
How to plant arborvitae
Plant arborvitae in fall (September through November in most US zones) or spring (April through May). Fall is slightly better in Zones 5–8 — cooler soil temperatures reduce transplant stress and roots establish through the winter before summer heat arrives.
Site selection: full sun is required — a minimum of 6 hours of direct sun daily. Partial shade causes the interior foliage to thin and brown over 3–5 years. Site on the north or east side of a structure if that is where you need screening, but be aware of shade cast by buildings and existing trees.
Soil preparation: arborvitae prefer well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0–7.5). In clay soils — common in the Midwest and Southeast — amend the planting bed with 30–40% compost by volume. In heavy clay, raised planting by 4–6 inches improves drainage enough to prevent root rot.
Spacing for a privacy screen:
- Emerald Green: 3 feet on center for a solid screen; 4 feet for faster individual specimen growth
- Green Giant: 8–10 feet on center for a screen; 12–15 feet for specimen trees
- ‘Steeplechase’: 5–6 feet on center
Planting depth: the root flare (where the trunk meets the roots) must be at or slightly above soil grade. Planting too deep — burying the root flare — is the most common planting mistake and causes slow death over 3–5 years.
Planting steps:
- Dig the hole 2–3 times the width of the root ball and the same depth.
- Remove all burlap, wire cages, and container material.
- Set the tree so the root flare is 1–2 inches above the surrounding soil.
- Backfill with the excavated soil mixed 1:3 with compost.
- Water in thoroughly — 5–10 gallons per plant.
- Apply 3–4 inches of wood chip mulch in a ring, keeping mulch 3 inches away from the trunk.
Arborvitae care: watering, fertilizing, and pruning
Watering
New arborvitae need consistent moisture during the first two growing seasons. Water deeply once per week during dry periods — about 1 inch per week. After two seasons, established plants are moderately drought tolerant in the East but still benefit from watering during extended dry spells.
In the first winter after planting, water during dry spells when the ground is not frozen. Arborvitae lose moisture through their foliage year-round. Winter drought — especially combined with wind — causes the brown foliage damage known as winter burn.
Fertilizing
Apply a slow-release fertilizer formulated for evergreens or conifers (10-8-6 or similar) in early spring, before new growth begins. One application per year is enough for established plants. Over-fertilizing causes rapid, weak growth that is more susceptible to snow and ice damage.
For newly planted arborvitae, skip fertilizer in the first season — focus on water. Add fertilizer in year 2 once the tree shows evidence of active new growth.
Pruning
Arborvitae require minimal pruning when sited correctly. For Emerald Green and other naturally columnar cultivars, no regular shearing is needed.
If shaping is desired, prune in early spring before new growth emerges, or in mid-summer after new growth has hardened. Never cut into old wood — arborvitae do not regenerate from bare brown wood the way boxwood or certain other shrubs do.
Trim only the green, actively growing portions. Remove dead or brown branches at any time of year. For multiple-leader specimens that develop a wide, open form, stake the leaders together loosely with soft tree ties to create a tighter silhouette.
For a comparison of low-maintenance evergreen shrubs that can supplement arborvitae screens, see our Evergreen Shrubs guide and Green Mountain Boxwood guide.
Arborvitae problems and pests
Bagworms
Bagworms are the most serious pest of arborvitae in the eastern US, present from Minnesota to Texas. The larvae build silk bags covered in plant material, feeding inside the bag from June through September. Heavy infestations strip arborvitae of foliage in one season.
Management:
- Hand-pick and destroy bags from October through early spring (before eggs hatch in May or June)
- Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) spray in late May or June when bags are small (under 1 inch)
- Spinosad spray is effective when applied to small bags — less effective once bags exceed 2 inches
Winter burn
Brown foliage on the windward side of arborvitae in late winter is winter burn — desiccation from frozen soil preventing water uptake while foliage loses moisture in cold winds. It is most common in Zones 3–5 on plants exposed to northwest or west winds.
Prevention: install a burlap windbreak on the windward side for the first two winters after planting. Long-term, site arborvitae on the south or east side of buildings to minimize wind exposure.
Spider mites
Fine webbing on foliage and stippled, bronze-colored needles in mid-to-late summer indicate spider mites. They are most severe during hot, dry summers. Knock mites off with a forceful water spray, or apply insecticidal soap or neem oil early in the infestation.
Root rot
Wet, poorly drained soil causes Phytophthora root rot. Affected plants show slow wilting, needle browning, and eventually die from the roots up. Prevention is better than treatment — amend clay soil before planting and avoid low spots that collect water.
Deer
White-tailed deer eat arborvitae heavily in fall and winter when other food is scarce. A mature Emerald Green screen can be stripped to bare trunks in a single winter by a deer herd. For deer-prone properties, consider deer-resistant alternatives. See our guides to Deer Resistant Perennials and Deer Resistant Flowers for companion plantings that deter deer from the area.
Alternatives to arborvitae
If deer pressure is severe or your site is outside the arborvitae zone, consider these alternatives:
| Alternative | Height | Width | Deer resistant | Zones |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Green Giant Arborvitae | 50–60 ft | 12–20 ft | Moderate | 5–9 |
| Taylor Juniper | 20 ft | 3–4 ft | Yes | 3–9 |
| Blue Point Juniper | 12–15 ft | 6–8 ft | Yes | 4–9 |
| Emerald Green Arborvitae | 10–15 ft | 3–4 ft | No | 3–8 |
| Austrian Pine | 50–60 ft | 20–30 ft | Yes | 3–7 |
| Inkberry Holly | 5–8 ft | 5–8 ft | Yes | 3–9 |
Taylor Juniper is the most direct deer-resistant substitute for Emerald Green arborvitae in Zones 3–9. It has a similar columnar shape — 20 feet tall, 3–4 feet wide — and tolerates drier conditions than arborvitae.
Buying arborvitae in the US
Arborvitae are sold as balled-and-burlapped (B&B), container-grown, or bare-root specimens. Container plants are the most widely available at retail. B&B plants from specialty nurseries are typically larger at purchase.
What size to buy: a 3-gallon container plant (12–18 inches) establishes quickly and costs $15–25. A 15-gallon plant (3–4 feet) gives a 2–3 year head start but costs $60–100. For a 30-foot screen, buying 3-gallon plants and waiting 6–7 years often costs less than buying large specimens.
Spring planting means plants are available at full retail from March through May. Fall prices at many US nurseries drop 25–40% after Labor Day to clear stock before winter — buying in September or October is the best value if your zone allows fall planting.
The Iowa State University Extension provides updated research on arborvitae spacing, variety performance, and deer management strategies for Midwest homeowners — one of the most detailed US regional resources on the subject.
Sarah Mitchell is a Master Gardener and garden writer based in the Pacific Northwest. She has been growing food and flowers for over 15 years across USDA zones 7 and 8.