Weeping Pussy Willow

What is weeping pussy willow?

Weeping pussy willow (Salix caprea ‘Pendula’, also sold as Salix discolor ‘Weeping’) is a small ornamental tree grown for its silvery catkins in late winter and graceful weeping form through the growing season. It typically grows 6–8 feet tall, making it one of the few weeping trees suited to small US yards.

Most weeping pussy willows sold at US nurseries are grafted plants: the ornamental weeping form is budded onto an upright willow rootstock at a standard height of 4–6 feet. The graft union is visible as a slight bulge or change in bark texture at that height. The height of the graft determines the final canopy height—a tree grafted at 5 feet will produce weeping branches that hang to ground level at about 5 feet plus the length of the branches.

This is different from native pussy willow (Salix discolor), which grows as a large multi-stemmed shrub 8–20 feet tall and wide and is not typically grafted. The native species produces catkins on bare winter stems and is popular for cut-flower arrangements, but it lacks the weeping ornamental form.

For other winter-interest shrubs to combine with weeping pussy willow in a late-winter garden, our red twig dogwood guide covers the most widely planted US shrub for winter stem color.

Where to plant weeping pussy willow in the US

Plant weeping pussy willow in full sun with consistently moist to wet soil. It is one of the few ornamental trees that tolerates standing water or boggy conditions that would kill most landscape trees, making it an effective choice for low spots in US yards that drain poorly.

USDA zone range: 4–8. It handles Zone 3 winters in sheltered spots but may suffer tip dieback in severe cold. It does not perform well in Zone 9 and above—summer heat combined with summer drought is the primary failure mode at the southern edge of its range.

Soil: Tolerates clay, loam, or sandy soil as long as moisture is consistent. Prefers slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0–7.0). In alkaline soils (pH above 7.5), add sulfur to acidify before planting.

Planting locations:

• Edge of a pond or water feature (keep at least 6 feet from the edge to allow for root spread without eroding the bank)
• Low corner of a yard where water pools after rain
• Rain garden anchor plant
• Along a fence line or property edge where it serves as a screening tree
• As a specimen in a lawn area, allowing the weeping form to develop fully in the open

What to avoid: Do not plant within 20 feet of sewer lines, septic systems, or underground irrigation mainlines. Willow roots are aggressive moisture seekers and will penetrate and damage pipes over time—this is a documented problem in US municipalities where willows are planted near infrastructure. Also avoid planting under overhead power lines; the mature canopy may reach 8 feet and contact lines.

How to plant weeping pussy willow

Plant in spring or early fall when temperatures are below 70°F during the day. Avoid summer planting in Zones 6–8—the combination of heat and transplant stress reduces establishment success significantly.

Step-by-step planting:

1. Dig a hole 2–3 times the diameter of the root ball and the same depth. Do not dig deeper than the root ball—settling after planting is a common cause of planting-too-deep failures.
2. Remove the container or burlap wrapping. If the roots are circling the bottom of the container, score them with a knife in 4 places to redirect outward growth.
3. Position the tree so the graft union (the bulge on the trunk) is at least 2 inches above soil level.
4. Backfill with original soil—do not amend. Amendments in the backfill create a “bathtub effect” that slows root outward expansion.
5. Build a shallow water basin (a 3-inch-high ring of soil around the drip line) and fill it slowly 3 times.
6. Apply 3–4 inches of wood chip mulch from the drip line to 6 inches from the trunk. Do not mound mulch against the trunk.
7. Water deeply every 2–3 days for the first 4 weeks. Once established, weekly deep watering is sufficient.

Pruning: keeping the weeping form attractive

Weeping pussy willow grows vigorously once established and requires annual pruning to prevent the weeping branches from reaching and rooting in the ground, which eventually converts the ornamental form into a thicket.

When to prune: Late spring, immediately after the catkins finish—typically April–May in Zones 5–7. Do not prune in fall or early winter. Pruning in fall removes the catkin-bearing wood that provides the winter display. Pruning in late summer can stimulate soft growth that dies back in cold.

What to prune:

• Any branches touching the ground (these will take root and form unwanted suckering shoots)
• Branches growing toward the center of the canopy (impede air circulation)
• Dead or crossing branches
• Suckers growing from the rootstock below the graft union—these are from the upright willow rootstock and will eventually take over if not removed

How much to cut: Remove up to one-third of the branch length in any single pruning. Cutting back more than one-third stresses the tree. Weeping pussy willow tolerates moderately hard pruning and responds with vigorous new growth that will produce the following year’s catkins.

Shaping note: The weeping branches grow at varying rates. An annual trim to equalize the branch lengths produces a more uniform, dome-shaped canopy. Without annual pruning, the canopy becomes asymmetrical and eventually requires more significant corrective pruning.

Growing catkins for cut flower arrangements

Weeping pussy willow catkins are among the most popular early-spring cut branches for indoor arrangements in the US. Cut branches just as the silver catkins begin to swell but before the yellow anthers extend—this is the moment they last longest in a vase.

Cutting technique:

1. Use sharp, clean pruning shears.
2. Cut 18–24 inch branches at a 45-degree angle.
3. Make a 1-inch vertical split in the base of each cut stem to increase water uptake.
4. Place immediately in cold water.
5. Bring indoors gradually—a few hours in a cool garage before placing in a warm room prevents premature opening.

Catkins placed in water in a warm room will continue to develop and eventually produce yellow pollen over 1–2 weeks. If you want to preserve the silver fuzzy stage longer, place cut branches without water in a cold room (40–50°F)—the catkins will remain silver for 2–4 weeks.

For dried arrangements, allow catkins to develop fully and dry on the branch, then bring indoors. They hold their shape without water once fully dry.

What weeping pussy willow looks like through the seasons

The plant’s appearance changes dramatically from late winter through fall, making it a four-season ornamental with a different visual contribution in each season.

The winter structure of bare weeping branches is attractive on its own, especially against a snow background or in front of an evergreen backdrop. For winter garden interest, pairing weeping pussy willow with red twig dogwood creates a high-contrast late-winter display—silver catkins against red stems. Our Japanese maple guide covers another specimen tree with four-season interest that pairs well as a complementary focal point.

Common problems in US gardens

Weeping pussy willow has few serious pest problems but is susceptible to two issues that appear regularly in US conditions: willow scab (a fungal disease in wet climates) and aphid colonies in spring.

Willow scab (Venturia saliciperda): Most common in the Pacific Northwest and Upper Midwest where wet spring weather persists. Symptoms: brown or black spots on new leaves in May–June, followed by premature leaf drop. Management: rake and dispose of fallen leaves; avoid overhead watering; apply a copper-based fungicide at bud swell as a preventative measure in areas with a history of the disease.

Aphids: Large colonies of willow aphids (Pterochlorus persicae or related species) can form on new growth in spring. Colonies are usually parasitized by wasps within 2–3 weeks and do not require treatment in most cases. If a colony is very dense and distorting new growth, a strong jet of water from a hose knocks aphids off without chemicals.

Root problems near infrastructure: As noted in the planting section, willow roots are aggressive. In established yards, roots from a well-established weeping pussy willow can travel 20–30 feet seeking moisture. Monitor annually for roots appearing in lawn areas or near garden beds and cut back to the drip line.

For related shrubs with similar winter interest but lower moisture requirements, our flowering bushes guide covers 10 reliable ornamental shrubs for US gardeners across zones 4–9.

The University of Minnesota Extension trees and shrubs page provides cold-climate specific guidance for growing willows and other ornamentals in Zones 3–5, including winter protection recommendations for Zone 4 plants at the northern edge of their range.