Lily: Care and Growing Guide
True lilies grow in USDA Zones 3–9 from fall-planted bulbs. This US guide covers Asiatic, Oriental, and trumpet types, plus planting, care, and pests.
Key takeaways
- True lilies (Lilium) are different from daylilies (Hemerocallis) and calla lilies (Zantedeschia) — they grow from scaly bulbs, not rhizomes
- Asiatic lilies are the most cold-tolerant and easiest to grow — reliable in Zones 3–9 with no special care
- Plant lily bulbs in fall (or early spring) with the pointy side up, 3 times as deep as the bulb is wide
- Lilies need full sun but prefer cool roots — ground cover or mulch over the root zone prevents heat stress
- Red lily leaf beetle is the most destructive pest for US lily growers, especially in the Northeast; hand-pick or use spinosad
True lilies versus lily lookalikes
True lilies are Lilium species — perennial bulbs that grow a single erect stem topped with 6-petaled flowers. They differ fundamentally from daylilies (Hemerocallis), calla lilies (Zantedeschia), peace lilies (Spathiphyllum), and water lilies (Nymphaea). All use “lily” in their common name but are entirely different plants with different care needs.
This distinction matters for two reasons: cat toxicity (true lilies and daylilies are acutely toxic to cats; calla lilies cause different symptoms; peace lilies are the least severe) and planting method (true lilies grow from bulbs; daylilies from fibrous crowns; calla lilies from rhizomes).
This guide covers true lilies in the genus Lilium — the bulb-grown summer-blooming plants sold in US garden centers and mail-order catalogs.
For calla lily information, see Calla Lily Care and Calla Lily: Care and Growing Guide. For Asiatic lily specifics, see Asiatic Lily: Care and Growing Guide.
Types of true lilies for US gardens
| Type | USDA Zones | Bloom time | Height | Fragrance | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Asiatic | 3–9 | June–July | 2–5 ft | None | Easiest, most cold-tolerant, most colors |
| Oriental | 4–8 | July–August | 3–6 ft | Strong | Best fragrance; needs well-drained soil |
| Trumpet | 4–9 | July | 4–6 ft | Moderate | Large flowers; excellent for warm climates |
| Tiger lily (L. lancifolium) | 3–9 | July–August | 3–4 ft | None | Naturalizes readily; orange with black spots |
| LA hybrid (Longiflorum-Asiatic) | 4–9 | June–July | 3–4 ft | Slight | Bridge between Asiatic and Oriental; good disease resistance |
| OT hybrid (Oriental-Trumpet) | 4–9 | July–August | 4–7 ft | Moderate–strong | Also called Orienpets; vigorous and showy |
| Species lilies | 3–9 (varies) | June–August | 1–8 ft (varies) | Varies | Many US native species; less often sold commercially |
Asiatic lilies are the starting point for most US gardeners. They grow reliably in Zone 3 winters without protection, bloom earliest, and come in the widest color range (red, orange, yellow, pink, white, bicolor). No fragrance is their main limitation.
Oriental lilies are the fragrant summer lily of US florist tradition — ‘Stargazer’ (pink and white) is the most widely grown. They need excellent drainage and are less tolerant of wet winter soil than Asiatics. Plant them in raised beds in clay-soil areas.
OT hybrids (Orienpets) like ‘Yelloween’, ‘Silk Road’, and ‘Conca d’Or’ are becoming the preferred choice of serious US gardeners. They combine Oriental fragrance with Trumpet vigor and are more heat-tolerant than standard Orientals.
Where to plant lilies
Lilies need:
- Full sun, 6+ hours daily. 6–8 hours for most reliable bloom. Less sun produces leggy plants that lean and topple, plus reduced flowering.
- Cool root zone. Lilies are adapted to woodland edges where roots stay cool under leaf litter while stems reach full sun. Mulch helps replicate this.
- Excellent drainage. Bulbs rot in waterlogged soil. Avoid low areas that collect water after rain. Raised beds are ideal in clay soils.
- Wind protection. Tall lily stems (4–6 feet for Orientals and OTs) break in strong wind. Plant on the leeward side of a fence or hedge.
Plant in groups of 3, 5, or 7 bulbs for the best visual impact. Single bulbs look sparse and accidental in the garden.
For companion plants that pair well with summer-blooming lilies, our Full Sun Perennials guide covers compatible species that bloom earlier or later, extending the summer display.
Planting lily bulbs: step by step
Plant in fall (October–November) in most US zones, or in early spring.
Fall planting advantages:
- Bulbs establish roots before ground freezes
- Produces stronger, larger first-year plants
- Mirrors how lilies naturally go dormant and re-establish
Spring planting: Works fine but produces slightly smaller first-year plants. Spring-planted bulbs may not bloom until the second year.
Planting steps:
- Choose a site with 6+ hours of sun and good drainage.
- Loosen soil to 12 inches deep. Add compost to improve drainage in clay; add water-holding material (compost or coir) in sand.
- Dig holes 3 times as deep as the bulb width. A 2-inch diameter bulb goes 6 inches deep.
- Place bulb with the pointed end up (root plate down).
- Space bulbs 8–12 inches apart for most types; 12–18 inches for tall OT hybrids.
- Cover and firm soil gently.
- Water lightly after planting; do not overwater before growth emerges.
- In Zones 3–5, apply 3–4 inches of straw mulch after the ground freezes to protect bulbs.
Caring for lilies after planting
Watering: Water consistently during active growth (spring through bloom). Drought stress right before or during bloom reduces flower size and count. After bloom, water less frequently — the plant is going dormant.
Mulching: Apply 2–3 inches of wood chips or pine bark over the root zone in late spring. This keeps soil temperature 10–15°F cooler than bare soil in summer, replicating the cool-root conditions lilies evolved in.
Fertilizing: Apply a balanced granular fertilizer (10-10-10) in early spring when shoots emerge. A second application at half-rate when buds form is optional but improves bloom. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers that push leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
Staking: Tall Oriental and OT hybrids (4–6+ feet) need staking in exposed sites. Use bamboo stakes placed when plants are 12–18 inches tall — much easier than staking full-height plants.
After bloom: Leave foliage in place until it yellows and dies back naturally, typically in August–September. The leaves continue to photosynthesize and rebuild the bulb for next year’s bloom. Cutting foliage early weakens the bulb and reduces next-year performance.
Lily pests in the US
| Pest | Damage | US range | Treatment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Red lily leaf beetle | Defoliation; orange-red adults, slug-like larvae | Northeast US primarily; spreading south and west | Hand-pick adults; neem oil or spinosad for larvae |
| Aphids | Sticky honeydew, distorted leaves | All zones | Strong water spray; insecticidal soap |
| Bulb mites | Bulb decay; stunted growth | All zones, especially high-humidity areas | Purchase certified clean bulbs; improve drainage |
| Deer | Complete defoliation | All zones with deer pressure | Fencing; deer repellent spray |
| Voles | Bulb consumption | All zones | Hardware cloth bulb baskets |
Red lily leaf beetle (Lilioceris lilii) is the most destructive lily pest in the US. Native to Europe, it arrived in the US in the 1940s and has spread from New England through the Midwest. The bright orange-red adult beetle and its larvae completely defoliate lilies. Hand-pick adults daily during spring–summer; spray larvae with spinosad or neem oil.
In high-deer-pressure areas, lilies are a preferred target. See Deer Resistant Flowers for companion plants and strategies to mix with lilies in deer-prone gardens.
Diseases affecting US lilies
Botrytis blight is the most common lily disease in the US, especially in wet spring conditions. Brown spots with gray mold on leaves and stems appear during extended wet weather. Management: improve air circulation, avoid overhead irrigation, remove infected plant parts.
Basal rot (Fusarium oxysporum): Bulb rots from the base up. Causes sudden plant collapse. Avoid planting in the same spot repeatedly. Purchase bulbs from reputable US suppliers.
Lily mosaic virus: Yellow streaking on leaves; transmitted by aphids. No cure. Remove and destroy infected plants.
Extending the lily season
Extend bloom from June through September in Zone 6 by planting all three types:
- Asiatic lilies: Bloom June–early July. Plant ‘Tiny Padhye’, ‘Navona’, or ‘Connecticut King’.
- LA hybrids: Bloom mid-July. ‘Brindisi’ and ‘Vivaldi’ are widely available in US garden centers.
- Oriental lilies: Bloom July–August. ‘Stargazer’, ‘Casa Blanca’, ‘Black Beauty’.
- OT hybrids: Bloom August. ‘Yelloween’, ‘Conca d’Or’.
This succession covers 10–12 weeks of lily bloom from a single bed. For year-round garden color planning that includes lilies in the summer season, our Deer Resistant Perennials guide covers perennial companions for mixed border design.
Propagating lilies
Lilies multiply naturally over time, producing clusters of daughter bulbs around the mother bulb. Divide clumps every 3–5 years in fall when plants are dormant.
Tiger lily propagation: Tiger lilies produce small, dark bulbils in the leaf axils (where leaves join the stem). Collect bulbils in late summer and plant 1–2 inches deep. They grow into flowering-size bulbs in 2–3 years.
Scaling: Remove a healthy outer scale from a bulb and plant 1 inch deep. Each scale can produce 1–3 new bulblets. Results take 2–3 years to flowering size.
Buying lily bulbs in the US
US sources:
- Local garden centers: Best for spring planting; selection limited to popular Asiatics and Orientals
- Mail-order bulb companies: Best selection; fall shipping for fall planting; Dutch Bulbs, Colorblends, Old House Gardens
- Specialty lily growers: Cascade Bulb & Seed (Oregon), B&D Lilies (Washington)
Look for firm bulbs without soft spots or mold. Larger bulbs bloom more reliably in the first year — don’t buy undersized bulbs to save money.
For summer-blooming garden combinations that work with lilies, see our Marigolds care guide and Zinnias guide for heat-loving companions that fill the garden through lily bloom season and beyond.
Sarah Mitchell is a Master Gardener and garden writer based in the Pacific Northwest. She has been growing food and flowers for over 15 years across USDA zones 7 and 8.