Lily Flower: Care and Growing Guide

Lily flower care overview

Lilies are perennial bulbs that bloom once per summer and return each year. Plant bulbs in fall or early spring in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Leave the foliage standing after bloom — the leaves feed the bulb for next year’s flowers.

True lilies (Lilium species) are among the most rewarding summer bulbs for US gardens. They come in hundreds of varieties across 9 divisions, from knee-high Asiatics to 6-foot Oriental-Trumpet hybrids. Most are straightforward to grow once they have the right drainage and sun.

Lily divisions and characteristics

The American Lily Society divides lilies into 9 divisions based on parentage and flower form. For home gardeners, 5 divisions are most useful:

For beginners: Asiatic hybrids are the most forgiving — they are cold-hardy, multiply readily, and ask only for sun and drainage.

For fragrance: Oriental hybrids and Trumpet lilies provide the most intense fragrance. Oriental lilies are sometimes sold at grocery stores as cut flowers. In the garden, one or two plants can scent a large area on warm evenings.

For height: OT hybrids (Orienpet — Oriental crossed with Trumpet) are the tallest, reaching 5–8 feet with large flowers. They require staking in exposed locations.

For a broader view of lily types, see types of lilies.

When and how to plant lily bulbs

Fall planting (preferred)

Fall planting in October–November gives lily bulbs time to establish roots before the ground freezes. Root growth continues at soil temperatures above 40°F, giving spring-planted bulbs a head start.

Best timing by zone:

Spring planting

Spring-planted lily bulbs bloom reliably the same year but produce slightly fewer flowers than fall-planted bulbs in the first season. Plant as early as the ground can be worked, in March or April, depending on zone.

Planting depth and spacing

Plant bulbs with the pointed tip facing up. If you can’t tell which end is up, plant on the side — the shoots will find their way upward.

Drainage is critical. Lily bulbs rot in standing water. Amend heavy clay soils with coarse grit, pea gravel, or compost before planting. Raised beds are the simplest solution in clay-heavy areas.

Sun and soil requirements

Sun: Lily flowers need 6–8 hours of direct sun per day. They tolerate a bit of afternoon shade in the hottest climates (Zones 7–9), which can help extend bloom.

Soil pH: 6.0–6.5 is ideal. Most US garden soils fall in this range.

Drainage: This is the non-negotiable requirement. If water pools in your planting area after rain, lilies will struggle or rot. Improve drainage before planting rather than after.

Soil preparation:

1. Loosen soil 12 inches deep
2. Incorporate 2–3 inches of compost
3. Add coarse grit or perlite for drainage in heavy soils
4. Do not add fresh manure — it promotes fungal rot

Watering and fertilizing

Watering:

• Water at planting to settle soil around bulbs
• During active growth (spring through bloom): water when the top inch of soil dries
• After bloom: reduce watering as foliage begins to yellow
• Avoid overhead watering — wet foliage promotes Botrytis (gray mold)

Fertilizing:

• Apply a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer (10-10-10) when shoots emerge in spring
• Side-dress with a low-nitrogen fertilizer (5-10-10) as buds form, to support flower development without excessive leaf growth
• Do not fertilize after the foliage begins to yellow — this signals the bulb is going dormant and doesn’t need further feeding

After the lily blooms

What you do after flowering determines how well the lily performs next year.

Deadhead spent flowers: Remove the flower head (and any seed pod forming) once petals drop. Seed production drains energy from the bulb. Snap or cut off at the base of the flower, leaving the stem intact.

Do NOT cut down the stem: The stem and all leaves must remain in place until they turn yellow and pull free easily — usually 6–10 weeks after bloom. The photosynthesis occurring in those leaves feeds the bulb for next year’s growth.

Cutting early: If you cut the stem while it’s still green, you starve the bulb. Plants treated this way bloom weakly or not at all the following season. This is the single most common lily care mistake in US gardens.

Dividing lily bulbs

Lily clumps should be divided when they become crowded (typically every 3–5 years). Signs of crowding: many small stems with smaller flowers than in previous years.

When to divide: Fall, after foliage has fully yellowed.

How to divide:

1. Dig the clump carefully, going 8–10 inches deep to avoid cutting bulbs
2. Separate bulb offsets (small bulbs attached to the main bulb) from the parent
3. Replant immediately at the correct depth
4. Offsets take 1–3 years to reach blooming size

Pest and disease management

Red lily beetles (eastern US): The most damaging lily pest. Small, bright red beetles (½ inch) appear on lilies in spring and eat leaves, stems, and buds voraciously. Their larvae cover themselves in feces for camouflage.

• Inspect weekly in spring; check undersides of leaves
• Hand-pick adults and drop in soapy water
• For heavy infestations, spinosad or neem oil applications provide control
• Do not over-rely on neem — it degrades within 3–5 days

Aphids: Common on lily buds in spring. A strong jet of water dislodges most aphids. Natural predators (ladybugs, lacewings) often control them if you avoid broad-spectrum pesticides.

Botrytis (gray mold): Brown spots on leaves and stems in cool, wet weather. Improve air circulation; avoid overhead watering. Remove affected foliage.

Root rot: Caused by poor drainage. Prevention is the only solution — there is no effective treatment once rot establishes. Dig bulbs showing rot, remove affected portions, and replant in improved soil.

Lily flowers to grow by US region

Cold northern gardens (Zones 3–4): Focus on Asiatic hybrids and Martagon lilies — both are reliably hardy to Zone 3. Avoid Orientals in Zone 3 without heavy mulching.

Mid-Atlantic, Southeast, Midwest (Zones 5–7): The greatest selection is possible here. Asiatics, Orientals, Trumpets, and OT hybrids all perform well. Try Asiatic lily for early season and Oriental for late summer fragrance to extend the bloom window.

Hot South and Southwest (Zones 8–9): Asiatics tolerate Zone 9 in well-drained soil with afternoon shade. Orientals struggle in heat — plant in a spot with shade after 2 p.m. or stick with Asiatics. Consider calla lily as a companion that handles heat better than true lilies.

For Asiatic lily-specific growing information, see asiatic lily. For planting lilies as part of a mixed summer border, see full sun perennials for companion suggestions.

According to the American Lily Society, properly planted lily bulbs with adequate drainage can perform for 10–20 years without division in ideal conditions, making them one of the best long-term value plants available for US summer gardens.