Do Calla Lilies Come Back Every Year
Calla lilies come back yearly in Zones 8–10. In Zones 3–7, dig rhizomes after frost, store dry at 50–60°F, and replant next spring for reliable return.
Key takeaways
- Calla lilies are perennial in USDA Zones 8–10 and return every year with no special treatment
- In Zones 3–7, dig rhizomes after the first frost, cure 2–3 days, and store at 50–60°F in dry peat moss or vermiculite
- Containerized calla lilies can overwinter indoors in any zone — stop watering in fall, bring pots inside, resume watering in March
- Calla lily rhizomes multiply each year; a single rhizome produces 2–5 offsets that can be divided and replanted
- Calla lilies need a dry rest period of 2–3 months annually to bloom well the following season — skip this and flowering declines
The short answer
Calla lilies come back every year in USDA Zones 8–10, where winters stay above 25°F. In Zones 3–7 — where most US gardeners live — they return only if you dig the rhizomes before frost and store them through winter. Left in frozen ground, the rhizomes die.
This makes calla lilies what horticulturists call a “tender perennial” — technically a perennial plant that cannot survive the winters in much of its US growing range. The same is true of dahlias, cannas, and gladiolus.
The good news: storing calla lily rhizomes is straightforward. With 20 minutes of effort in fall and spring, you get a plant that multiplies in your storage bin and produces more flowers every year.
What zone do you live in?
Your USDA zone determines how much work calla lilies require:
| USDA Zones | What to do |
|---|---|
| Zones 8–10 (Pacific Coast, Gulf States, Southwest) | Leave in ground; they return every spring |
| Zone 7 (mid-Atlantic, Pacific Northwest, parts of South) | Mulch heavily in fall; survival is possible but not guaranteed |
| Zones 3–6 (Midwest, Northeast, Mountain West) | Dig and store every fall; replant in spring |
Not sure of your zone? The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov lets you enter a zip code for a precise zone reading.
For warm-zone care including watering and fertilizing, see the full calla lily care guide.
When calla lilies are perennial (Zones 8–10)
In Zones 8–10, calla lilies require no special treatment to return each year:
- Allow foliage to die back naturally after summer blooming (or in winter in frost-free areas)
- Reduce watering during the dormant period — the plant wants a dry rest of 8–10 weeks
- Resume regular watering as new growth emerges
- Divide clumps every 3 years when flowering declines
The dry rest period matters even in warm zones. Calla lilies that are kept continuously wet year-round eventually stop blooming because the rhizome never triggers the conditions that initiate flower bud formation. In Southern California and Florida, this is the most common reason calla lilies fail to rebloom.
In zone 8 and 9 gardens, September through November is typically the rest period. Reduce watering to nearly zero during these months, even if conditions are warm.
Digging calla lilies for winter storage (Zones 3–7)
The timing and technique for digging make the difference between rhizomes that survive storage and those that rot.
Step 1: Wait for the right time
Dig after the first frost kills the foliage — typically late October in Zones 6–7, September–October in Zones 3–5. Do not rush the dig. As foliage yellows and browns, the plant pulls sugars and nutrients back into the rhizome, plumping it up for the following season. Digging while leaves are still partly green wastes this energy transfer.
If you cannot wait for frost (for example, if an early, very hard freeze is forecast), dig when leaves are yellow-green and drooping.
Step 2: Dig carefully
Use a garden fork rather than a spade. Insert the fork 6–8 inches from the plant and pry upward — do not slice straight down, which will cut rhizomes. Calla lily rhizomes spread outward 4–6 inches from the crown and sit 4–6 inches deep.
Shake off excess soil. Do not wash rhizomes — excess moisture at this stage promotes rot during storage.
Step 3: Cure 2–3 days
Spread rhizomes in a single layer in a warm (65–70°F), dry place out of direct sun. A garage bench, potting shed floor, or spare room works. Allow cut surfaces and any damaged spots to dry and form a callous. This curing step dramatically reduces storage rot.
Step 4: Remove dead foliage
After curing, pull or cut away the dead foliage stubs. Do not pull while they are fresh — this can tear the rhizome. After curing, they pull away cleanly.
Step 5: Pack for storage
Options that work:
- Dry peat moss or vermiculite: wrap each rhizome loosely, pack in a mesh bag or paper bag
- Dry sawdust: a traditional method that keeps rhizomes dry
- Newspaper wrapping: works for short-term storage but less reliable over a full 5-month winter
Store packed rhizomes in a cardboard box or paper bag — never sealed plastic bags, which trap moisture and cause rot. Label the bag with the variety and color.
Temperature: 50–60°F is ideal. A basement, unheated garage (in mild winters), or crawlspace typically provides this range.
| Temperature | Result |
|---|---|
| Below 40°F | Rhizomes may be damaged by cold |
| 40–50°F | Acceptable; slightly risky |
| 50–60°F | Ideal |
| Above 65°F | Rhizomes may dry out too much or develop storage rot |
Step 6: Check monthly
Inspect stored rhizomes once a month. Remove any that show soft spots, mold, or rot — a single rotting rhizome can infect neighbors. Soft, shriveled rhizomes that are not yet rotting can be spritzed lightly with water and re-packed.
The container method: easier than digging
Many gardeners grow calla lilies in 10–12 inch pots rather than directly in the ground. This eliminates annual digging entirely.
- Grow calla lilies in containers all season
- In October, stop watering and allow foliage to die back
- Move the entire pot (with soil and rhizomes intact) to a frost-free garage or basement
- Do not water during storage — the dry pot is exactly what the rhizomes need
- In March, resume watering and return to a warm, sunny location
The container method prevents rhizome damage from digging, keeps offsets in place for bigger clumps each year, and is ideal for apartment balconies or small gardens. The calla lily overview guide covers container growing in more detail.
Replanting in spring
Replant stored rhizomes — or move containers back outside — after your last frost date passes and nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 45°F. For most of the northern US, this is May.
For planting depth: 4–6 inches deep with the growing tip (pointed end or visible bud) facing up. Plant in a sunny to part-shade location with well-drained soil.
Expect 6–8 weeks between planting and first bloom. Rhizomes planted in warm soil (60°F+) establish and bloom faster than those planted in cold soil.
For frost date information by location, check your local cooperative extension service or almanac.com’s frost date tool.
What to do with the offsets
Each rhizome produces 2–5 smaller rhizomes (offsets) each season. These can be:
- Left attached for a bigger clump — plants produce more flowers as clumps grow
- Divided and replanted to increase your collection — offsets from a single purchased rhizome can fill a bed within 3–4 years
- Shared with other gardeners — calla lily rhizomes are common items at garden swaps
Offsets smaller than a golf ball will need one full season to develop before blooming.
Why calla lilies don’t rebloom
Several issues cause calla lilies to skip blooming after the first year:
No rest period: the most common issue in warm climates. Rhizomes kept wet year-round lose the trigger to form flower buds. Force a dry rest of 8–10 weeks every year.
Planted too shallow: rhizomes at 2 inches depth overheat and produce foliage but few flowers. Plant at 4–6 inches.
Rhizomes left in ground in cold zones: frozen rhizomes die. Even a mild Zone 7 winter with temperatures in the low teens (°F) can kill unprotected rhizomes.
Too much nitrogen: high-nitrogen fertilizer pushes leafy growth. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer (or a bloom-formula product like 0-10-10) after the first year to encourage flowering.
Overcrowded clumps: after 3–5 years without division, clumps become crowded and flower production drops. Divide every 3 years.
For related spring-flowering bulb topics, see best spring perennials and annuals that bloom all summer.
Resources
- University of Minnesota Extension, “Calla Lilies” — extension.umn.edu
- USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map — planthardiness.ars.usda.gov
Sarah Mitchell is a Master Gardener and garden writer based in the Pacific Northwest. She has been growing food and flowers for over 15 years across USDA zones 7 and 8.