Catmint: Care and Growing Guide
Catmint blooms from late spring through fall in Zones 3–8 with almost no care. This guide covers varieties, planting, cutting back, and US growing tips.
Key takeaways
- 'Walker's Low' is the most widely grown catmint in the US — it reaches 24–36 inches and reblooms heavily if cut back by half after the first flush
- Catmint blooms from late May through June, then reblooms in August–September after cutting back — two distinct bloom periods per season
- Full sun and well-drained soil are non-negotiable — wet winter soil kills catmint faster than any cold temperature
- Cut catmint back by one-third to one-half after the first bloom flush to trigger the second bloom — don't skip this step
- Catmint is 2023 Perennial Plant of the Year — more reliable than lavender in most US zones and easier to establish
Why catmint earned Perennial Plant of the Year
Catmint is the most underused perennial in US home gardens — it blooms longer than lavender, tolerates cold better than Russian sage, requires less water than most ornamental grasses, and performs in Zones 3–8 without winter protection.
The Perennial Plant Association named catmint its 2023 Plant of the Year, a recognition given annually to the most reliable, widely adaptable perennial in the US market. The choice was backed by trial data from the Chicago Botanic Garden, which ran a 5-year catmint performance trial across 12 varieties and found that ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Cat’s Meow’ maintained consistent bloom quality and plant structure across extreme heat, drought, and wet spring conditions.
Two things prevent catmint from getting the attention it deserves. First, the name — many gardeners confuse it with catnip and assume it’s a weedy herb. Second, it looks rough immediately after the spring bloom fades. Gardeners who don’t know to cut it back see a floppy, brown-tipped plant in July and assume it’s failing.
Cut it back. That’s the whole secret. Cut it back hard in late June and it rebounds with a second bloom in August that lasts through September. Two major bloom periods, not one.
Catmint varieties for US gardens
| Variety | Height | Bloom color | Bloom period | Best use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ’Walker’s Low’ | 24–36 in | Lavender-blue | May–June + Aug | Border, mass planting |
| ’Cat’s Meow’ | 18–22 in | Lavender-blue | May–Sept (near-continuous) | Edging, small border |
| ’Six Hills Giant’ | 36–48 in | Violet-blue | May–July + rebloom | Back of border |
| ’Junior Walker’ | 14–18 in | Lavender-blue | May–June + rebloom | Edging, containers |
| ’Purrsian Blue’ | 14–18 in | Dark violet | May–Sept | Containers, front of border |
| ’Cat’s Pajamas’ | 18–20 in | Deep purple | May–Sept | Short edging, front of border |
‘Walker’s Low’ is the best-selling and most tested catmint in the US. Despite the name, it grows 24–36 inches tall — the “low” refers to the Walker’s Low garden in Northern Ireland where it was found. It produces the classic mounded habit that spills slightly over path edges. 2007 Perennial Plant of the Year.
‘Cat’s Meow’ is the newer standard for continuous bloom. Unlike ‘Walker’s Low’, which has two distinct bloom flushes, ‘Cat’s Meow’ stays in near-continuous bloom from May through September without cutting back — though cutting it does improve the second-half appearance. Compact at 18–22 inches. 2023 Plant of the Year winner.
‘Six Hills Giant’ is the largest catmint — 36–48 inches tall. It’s the right choice for the back of a border or as a bold mass planting. Less suitable for small beds. Spectacular at full bloom but needs space.
What USDA zones grow catmint?
Catmint grows reliably in Zones 3–8. In Zone 9–10, it often struggles with summer heat and year-round warmth that prevents proper dormancy.
Zone notes:
- Zones 3–4: Fully hardy. Mulch lightly (2–3 inches) in fall after the ground freezes to prevent heaving. ‘Walker’s Low’ and most standard varieties handle Zone 3 with no special treatment.
- Zones 5–6: Ideal performance zone. Long spring bloom window, enough summer heat to drive robust rebloom after cutting, and reliable fall color before dormancy.
- Zone 7: Excellent. Some varieties provide near-continuous color from May through October with minimal intervention.
- Zone 8: Grows but may show summer decline in the hottest weeks. Afternoon shade helps. Choose compact varieties; larger ones like ‘Six Hills Giant’ are more heat-sensitive.
- Zones 9–10: Marginal. High temperatures in summer and insufficient winter cold for dormancy often cause plants to fade by midsummer. Use as an annual or try in a cooler microclimate.
Check your growing zone at planting zones.
Planting catmint
Plant catmint in spring or fall in full sun with well-drained soil. The most critical factor is drainage — catmint dies faster in wet winter soil than from cold. A plant in poor soil with perfect drainage will survive; a plant in rich amended soil in a low spot often doesn’t.
Container-grown catmint is available at US garden centers from April through June. Bare-root divisions can be planted in early spring or early fall (at least 6 weeks before first frost).
Soil preparation: Do not amend with rich compost or fertilizer. Catmint prefers lean, well-drained soil. Soil that is too rich produces lush, floppy growth that falls over by June and is more susceptible to crown rot. Sandy or gravelly soil is acceptable — catmint is native to poor, rocky Mediterranean soils.
Spacing: ‘Walker’s Low’ and medium varieties: 18–24 inches apart. Compact varieties (‘Junior Walker’, ‘Cat’s Meow’): 12–15 inches apart.
After planting: Water in thoroughly and apply 1 inch of gravel or coarse-grit mulch around the base. Avoid thick wood chip mulch, which holds moisture at the crown. Water twice per week for the first 4–6 weeks, then reduce. After the first full season, most catmint needs no supplemental irrigation in Zones 5–7.
Sun and soil requirements
Full sun — at least 6 hours of direct sun daily — is required for compact, upright growth and maximum bloom. Part-shade catmint produces floppy, open growth and fewer flowers.
In shade, catmint’s stems elongate, the mounded habit collapses, and bloom is reduced by 40–60% compared to full-sun plants. This is the second most common catmint failure mode after poor drainage.
Soil: Well-drained, lean soil. pH 6.0–8.0 is acceptable. Catmint grows well in sandy soil, gravelly soil, and even rocky hillside soil. It does not grow well in compacted clay without drainage improvement.
Fertilizer: None needed. Catmint in lean soil produces the best-structured, most floriferous plants. Adding fertilizer produces rapid, floppy growth and doesn’t improve bloom.
How to cut catmint back for rebloom
Cut catmint back by one-third to one-half — not to the ground — immediately after the first bloom flush fades in late June or early July. Leave at least 6 inches of stem. Expect new growth within 2 weeks and a second bloom by mid-August.
This is the most important maintenance step for catmint. Plants left uncut after the first bloom become floppy, woody, and produce only scattered second-season flowers. Plants cut back properly rebloom with 70–90% of the first flush’s vigor.
The cut:
- Wait until most flowers in the first flush have turned brown — typically late June in Zones 5–6, early July in Zones 7–8.
- Using pruning shears or hedge clippers, cut the entire plant back to 6–8 inches from the base.
- Leave several sets of leaves on the remaining stems — don’t cut into bare woody stem.
- Water thoroughly after cutting.
New basal growth emerges within 10–14 days. The second bloom typically opens by late July or August, depending on zone.
‘Cat’s Meow’ exception: This variety was bred for near-continuous bloom without cutting back. It benefits from light shearing (removing spent flowers) rather than hard cutback, and it maintains a better appearance through July without intervention.
For maintenance timing in relation to other perennials, see the salvia guide, which has the same cut-back approach for a complementary bloom schedule.
Catmint as a pollinator plant
Catmint is one of the top five perennials for native bees in US gardens. Bumble bees, mason bees, mining bees, and honey bees all use it heavily during the bloom window.
The tubular blue flowers match the color preferences and foraging patterns of most US native bee species. Research from the Cornell Lab’s Pollinator Network project recorded over 20 bee species visiting Nepeta x faassenii in a single growing season at trial gardens in upstate New York.
Monarch butterflies also visit catmint, though they prefer nectar plants with larger flower heads. The value for monarchs is as a supporting plant in a broader pollinator mix rather than the primary nectar source.
For a full pollinator-supporting planting plan, see attract pollinators to your garden. Catmint pairs well with salvia and zinnias for a continuous pollinator bloom from May through frost.
Companion plants for catmint
Catmint’s blue-purple tone pairs with nearly every garden flower color.
Classic combination — roses: Catmint is the traditional rose underplanting in US formal gardens. It suppresses weeds at the base of roses, softens the harsh look of bare rose canes, and creates a complementary color contrast between the lavender catmint and pink or red roses.
Blue and yellow: Catmint + marigolds is one of the most striking summer combinations. The cool blue-purple against warm yellow-orange creates maximum color contrast. Both are drought-tolerant and full-sun plants.
Mass planting on slopes: Catmint’s spreading habit and drought tolerance make it one of the better options for stabilizing dry slopes. Plant 18 inches apart and let it knit together over 2–3 seasons.
Deer-resistant border: Catmint is reliably deer-resistant — the aromatic foliage deters browsing. Combine with deer-resistant perennials for a low-maintenance planting where deer pressure is high.
Edging along paths: Compact varieties like ‘Cat’s Meow’ or ‘Junior Walker’ work well as path edging. The soft mounding habit spills naturally over path edges without becoming a tripping hazard, and the bloom is at eye level when viewed from a low angle.
For low-maintenance front yard planting combinations, see front yard landscaping ideas.
Common problems
Powdery mildew is the most common catmint problem. White powdery coating appears on leaves in humid summers, especially in part shade or crowded plantings. Prevention: full sun, adequate spacing (18-inch minimum between plants), and water at soil level. Established plants in ideal conditions rarely develop mildew. Treat with potassium bicarbonate spray at first appearance.
Flopping stems in amended or rich soil. Catmint in soil with added compost grows lush and floppy by June. Move or transplant to a leaner site and avoid further amendments.
Root rot from wet winter soil. Crown rot appears as soft, brown tissue at the stem base. Check drainage. Plants that die suddenly in early spring are almost always drainage casualties — the crown sat in ice water during a winter freeze-thaw cycle.
Poor rebloom after cutting is usually caused by cutting too late (after September) or cutting into bare woody stems. Cut promptly after the first bloom fades and leave green stem tissue above the cut.
No flowers on established plants is typically a light problem. Catmint in less than 5–6 hours of direct sun blooms poorly. Check for shade from nearby trees or structures that may have developed over time.
The Chicago Botanic Garden’s catmint trial data covers 12 varieties with performance ratings across a broad range of US Midwest conditions — the most comprehensive publicly available catmint trial data for US gardeners.
Sarah Mitchell is a Master Gardener and garden writer based in the Pacific Northwest. She has been growing food and flowers for over 15 years across USDA zones 7 and 8.