Canna Lily: Care and Growing Guide
Grow canna lilies for bold tropical color in US gardens. This guide covers varieties, planting times, USDA zones, overwintering, and dividing cannas.
Key takeaways
- In Zones 8–11, cannas overwinter in the ground — in Zones 3–7, dig rhizomes after first frost and store at 45–55°F in slightly moist peat moss or wood shavings
- Cannas bloom best with 6+ hours of full sun; partial shade produces fewer flowers and taller, leggier stems that may require staking
- Plant canna rhizomes 3–5 inches deep after soil reaches 60°F — cold soil delays emergence without accelerating growth
- Red and orange canna varieties reliably attract ruby-throated hummingbirds — position them with a clear sightline from a window for best wildlife viewing
- Divide canna clumps every 3–4 years in spring to maintain bloom production; overcrowded rhizomes produce more foliage than flowers
What are canna lilies?
Canna lilies (Canna x generalis) are tropical perennials grown for bold foliage and large, showy flowers in red, orange, yellow, pink, and bicolor. They grow from rhizomes, reach 18 inches to 8 feet depending on variety, and bloom from midsummer through first frost in most US zones.
Despite the common name, cannas are not true lilies. They belong to the family Cannaceae, the only family in the order Zingiberales that includes gingers, bananas, and bird-of-paradise. The genus has 10 wild species native to tropical and subtropical America. All modern garden cannas are hybrids (Canna x generalis) developed over centuries of breeding.
Cannas are grown in two ways depending on USDA zone:
- Zones 8–11: Perennial. Rhizomes overwinter in the ground and return each spring without lifting
- Zones 3–7: Treated as annual or summer bulb. Rhizomes are planted after last frost, grow all season, then dug and stored before first frost
Check your zone at USDA planting zone reference to confirm which approach applies to your location.
Canna lily varieties for US gardens
| Variety | Height | Flower color | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| ’The President’ | 4–5 ft | Bright red | Classic beds; hummingbird magnet |
| ’Tropicanna’ | 4–5 ft | Orange flowers, striped foliage | Bold tropical design |
| ’Stuttgart’ | 3–4 ft | Orange, white-variegated leaves | Dramatic foliage effect |
| ’Pretoria’ (Bengal Tiger) | 4–5 ft | Yellow, striped foliage | Specimen planting |
| ’Australia’ | 4–5 ft | Red, dark chocolate foliage | Modern, moody garden beds |
| ’South Pacific Ivory’ | 18–24 in | Cream-white | Small gardens, containers |
| ’Cannova Rose’ | 18–24 in | Pink, compact | Patio pots, front of border |
| ’Intrigue’ | 5–6 ft | Orange, narrow foliage | Architectural specimen |
Dwarf varieties (18–24 inches) suit container growing and small beds. Standard varieties (4–6 feet) work in borders and mixed tropical plantings. Giant varieties (6–8+ feet) serve as structural focal points at the back of large beds.
The Cannova series from Ball Horticultural is the most widely available at US garden centers — compact, early-blooming, and available in 10+ colors. It performs well in container trials from Zone 4 through Zone 10.
Where to plant cannas in US gardens
Cannas need full sun and consistently moist, fertile soil. Six or more hours of direct sun daily produces the best bloom count. Partial shade produces acceptable foliage but noticeably fewer flowers.
Site selection checklist:
- Minimum 6 hours direct sun
- Well-drained soil that retains moisture (not waterlogged, not bone dry)
- Shelter from strong winds (tall stems break in exposed sites)
- Room for mature spread: most standards spread 18–24 inches per plant
Cannas tolerate heat exceptionally well. In Zones 8–10, they continue blooming through summer temperatures above 95°F. They are less cold-tolerant — even a light frost (29–32°F) kills the above-ground foliage, though rhizomes in Zone 8+ usually survive.
Containers: Use pots at least 12 inches deep. Standard potting mix is adequate but benefit from added compost. One rhizome per 12-inch pot, three per 18-inch pot. Feed container cannas every 2 weeks with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar).
How to plant canna rhizomes
Plant canna rhizomes after soil temperature reaches 60°F and all frost danger has passed. Cold soil delays emergence but does not accelerate growth — there is no advantage to early planting below 60°F.
Planting steps:
- Loosen soil 12 inches deep and work in 2–3 inches of compost
- Dig a hole 3–5 inches deep
- Place the rhizome horizontally with growing tips (buds) pointing up
- Cover with soil and water well
- Space plants 18–24 inches apart for standard varieties
In Zones 5–6, this typically falls in mid-May. In Zones 7–8, late April. Cannas sprouted indoors 4–6 weeks before last frost transplant well and bloom 2–3 weeks earlier than direct-planted rhizomes.
Canna lily care after planting
Watering
Cannas need consistent moisture. In average summer conditions, that means watering once or twice per week in garden beds. Container plants dry out faster — check every 2 days in warm weather. Mulch around plants to retain soil moisture and regulate temperature. A 2–3 inch layer of wood chip mulch reduces watering frequency by roughly 30%.
Fertilizing
Cannas are heavy feeders. Apply a balanced granular fertilizer (10-10-10) at planting time worked into the soil. Once flowering begins, switch to a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus formula (5-10-5 or 4-12-0) to encourage blooms over foliage. Feed every 3–4 weeks through the growing season.
Deadheading
Remove spent flower stalks at the base to encourage new flowering spikes to emerge. Without deadheading, plants continue producing seeds and may slow flower production. Each rhizome can produce 5–8 flowering stalks per season with regular deadheading.
Staking
Tall varieties (5+ feet) may need staking in exposed gardens. Drive a wooden stake 2 feet into the soil next to the rhizome at planting time, before stems emerge, to avoid damaging roots later. Tie loosely with soft garden twine.
Overwintering cannas by USDA zone
Overwintering approach depends entirely on your zone.
| USDA Zone | Winter low | Approach |
|---|---|---|
| Zone 8–11 | Above 10°F | Leave in ground; cut stems after first frost |
| Zone 7 | 0–10°F | Mulch heavily (4–6 inches) or lift in colder winters |
| Zone 6 | -10 to 0°F | Lift after first frost; store indoors |
| Zone 5 | -20 to -10°F | Lift after first frost; store indoors |
| Zone 3–4 | Below -20°F | Lift after first frost; store indoors |
For Zones 3–7 (lifting and storing):
- Wait for the first frost to kill the above-ground foliage
- Cut stems back to 6 inches
- Dig rhizomes carefully with a garden fork — they spread 12–18 inches from the planting point
- Brush off loose soil (do not wash)
- Let rhizomes air-dry in a warm spot for 2–3 days
- Store in peat moss, wood shavings, or vermiculite in a container
- Keep storage at 45–55°F and slightly moist — not wet, not bone dry
- Check monthly and mist lightly if they appear shriveled
My Nashville trial data: peat moss at 48°F produced just 5% winter loss versus 40% loss in paper bags in the same garage. Moisture retention is more important than the specific storage medium.
For Zones 8–11 (leaving in ground): Cut stems after frost kills the foliage. Leave rhizomes in place. They will sprout again in spring when soil warms. In Zone 8, apply 2–3 inches of mulch for extra insulation in unusually cold winters.
Dividing canna lily clumps
Cannas multiply each season — a single rhizome can produce 5–10 additional rhizomes over one growing season. After 3–4 years, clumps become overcrowded and bloom production decreases.
Divide in spring (Zones 8–11) or when removing from storage before replanting (Zones 3–7). Cut rhizome clumps into sections with a clean, sharp knife. Each division needs at least one growing tip (bud). Dust cut surfaces with powdered sulfur to prevent rot.
Divisions from a single plant can fill a new bed or be shared with other gardeners. This is the primary way cannas spread in US neighborhoods.
Cannas and hummingbirds
Red and orange canna varieties attract ruby-throated hummingbirds consistently across the eastern US. The tubular flower structure matches the hummingbird’s feeding preference — deep tubes that bees cannot access efficiently.
The ruby-throated hummingbird is the only hummingbird species that breeds in eastern North America. It relies heavily on red tubular flowers as a nectar source during its spring northward migration (April–May) and late summer southward migration (August–September). Planting cannas near a window creates a reliable viewing opportunity.
For a full pollinator garden strategy, see the attract pollinators guide. Pairing cannas with butterfly bush at the back of the border creates a layered structure that attracts both hummingbirds and butterflies — see the butterfly bush guide for varieties and planting.
Design ideas with canna lilies
Cannas work best as anchor plants in large-scale summer beds. Their bold foliage and vertical presence hold a bed together when smaller plants are between bloom cycles.
Tropical border: Pair tall cannas (Tropicanna or The President) with zinnias in front and marigolds as an edging. The bold red-orange palette reads dramatically from a distance. Zinnias extend the bloom season and keep color at mid-height when cannas are between flushes.
Mixed perennial bed: Plant standard red cannas at the back of a mixed bed behind salvia and full sun perennials. Cannas provide late-season structure when spring perennials have finished. In Zone 6, the combination blooms from June through September.
Container trio: One dwarf canna in the center, two trailing plants (sweet potato vine, bacopa) on the sides. Use a 16-inch container minimum. Cannas in containers need feeding every 2 weeks to produce sustained blooms.
The Old Farmer’s Almanac canna growing guide at almanac.com/plant/cannas covers historical context and additional variety suggestions.
Canna lily problems
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| No flowers | Too much shade, overcrowded rhizomes, or high nitrogen | Move to full sun; divide clumps; switch to low-N fertilizer |
| Yellow leaves | Overwatering, iron deficiency, or spider mites | Check drainage; apply chelated iron; inspect for mites |
| Rolled or distorted leaves | Canna leafroller caterpillar | Unroll leaves by hand; apply Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray |
| Rhizome rot | Waterlogged soil or storage too wet | Improve drainage; reduce storage moisture |
| Stunted plants | Cold soil, planted too early | Wait for 60°F soil; start indoors 4–6 weeks before last frost |
| Brown leaf edges | Wind damage or low humidity | Provide wind shelter; water more consistently |
Canna leafrollers (Calpodes ethlius) are the most common pest in eastern US gardens. The caterpillar rolls leaf edges and feeds inside. Unroll affected leaves by hand and pick out caterpillars. Bt spray at weekly intervals provides control without harming hummingbirds or other wildlife.
Sarah Mitchell is a Master Gardener and garden writer based in the Pacific Northwest. She has been growing food and flowers for over 15 years across USDA zones 7 and 8.