Blue Arrow Juniper
Blue Arrow juniper grows 12–15 feet tall and just 2 feet wide with silvery-blue foliage. This guide covers planting, care, and US landscape uses.
Key takeaways
- Blue Arrow grows 12–15 feet tall and only 2 feet wide — the narrowest columnar evergreen at most US nurseries
- Hardy in USDA Zones 3–9 with excellent deer resistance — a significant advantage over arborvitae in the same role
- Full sun is required — partial shade causes loose, open branching and less foliage density
- Extremely drought tolerant once established — ideal for low-water gardens and western US climates
- No significant pruning required; the narrow, naturally columnar form stays tight without shearing
What is Blue Arrow juniper?
Blue Arrow juniper (Juniperus scopulorum ‘Blue Arrow’) is a narrow, columnar evergreen growing 12–15 feet tall and just 2–3 feet wide. Its silvery-blue foliage holds color through all four seasons, and the plant requires almost no maintenance once established.
Blue Arrow is a cultivar of Rocky Mountain juniper (Juniperus scopulorum), a species native to the Rocky Mountain region from British Columbia to Texas. The ‘Blue Arrow’ cultivar was selected for its exceptionally tight, columnar form and its consistent blue-silver foliage color. It is now one of the most widely sold columnar evergreens across the central and western US.
In terms of role, Blue Arrow does what Emerald Green arborvitae does — creates vertical privacy and evergreen structure — but does it in half the width, with better deer resistance, and with far less water. It is the right choice for tight spaces, deer-prone properties, and low-water gardens west of the Mississippi.
Blue Arrow vs other columnar junipers
| Variety | Height | Width | Foliage color | Deer resist | Zones |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blue Arrow | 12–15 ft | 2–3 ft | Blue-silver | Yes | 3–9 |
| Blue Point | 12–15 ft | 6–8 ft | Blue-green | Yes | 4–9 |
| Taylor Juniper | 20–30 ft | 3–4 ft | Blue-green | Yes | 3–9 |
| Skyrocket | 15–20 ft | 2–3 ft | Blue-green | Yes | 4–8 |
| Moonglow | 15–20 ft | 6–8 ft | Silver-blue | Yes | 3–8 |
| Emerald Sentinel | 15–20 ft | 4–5 ft | Green | Yes | 4–9 |
Blue Arrow vs Taylor Juniper: Taylor grows taller (20–30 feet vs 12–15 feet) and is similar in width (3–4 feet vs 2–3 feet). If you need a tall privacy screen for a large lot, Taylor is the better choice. For an 8–12 foot screen in a tight yard, Blue Arrow is more manageable. See our full Taylor Juniper guide for a detailed comparison.
Blue Arrow vs Blue Point: Blue Point has a broader, more pyramidal form — 6–8 feet wide compared to Blue Arrow’s 2–3 feet. Blue Point provides more visual mass and is better for a wider screen. Blue Arrow is the right choice when a fence line is 3 feet wide or less. Our Blue Point Juniper guide covers that cultivar in detail.
Blue Arrow vs Skyrocket: Both are very narrow, but Blue Arrow has a more consistent, tightly columnar form. Skyrocket can develop a looser, more irregular silhouette over time. Blue Arrow is the more dependable choice for formal lines and structured plantings.
What USDA zones does Blue Arrow juniper grow in?
Blue Arrow juniper is hardy in USDA Zones 3–9, one of the widest cold-tolerance ranges of any columnar evergreen. It survives Minnesota winters (Zone 3, -40°F minimum) and thrives in the arid Southwest through Zone 9.
The wide zone range reflects its species origin. Juniperus scopulorum is native to the Rocky Mountains, where temperatures swing from brutal winters to hot, dry summers — the plant evolved to handle both extremes.
In the humid Southeast (Zones 7–9 east of the Mississippi), Blue Arrow performs adequately but grows best in well-drained sites with good air circulation. Phomopsis tip blight — a fungal disease — can be a problem in humid conditions. Spacing plants 3–4 feet apart rather than the minimum 2 feet allows more air movement and reduces disease pressure.
Confirm your zone with the planting zones guide.
How to plant Blue Arrow juniper
Plant Blue Arrow in spring or fall. Spring planting in Zones 3–5 gives a full growing season for root establishment before the first hard freeze. Fall planting works well in Zones 6–9, where mild falls allow root growth through October and November.
Site selection:
- Full sun: 6 or more hours of direct sun daily — no compromise on this
- Avoid low spots, wet areas, or sites with poorly draining soil
- Plan spacing based on final width: 2–3 feet minimum between plants in a row; 3–4 feet for better air circulation
Soil requirements: Blue Arrow tolerates a wide range of soils — rocky, sandy, dry clay, or loam — but does not tolerate standing water. In native clay, amend with coarse sand and compost, or plant slightly high (root ball 1–2 inches above grade). Soil pH of 6.0–8.0 is acceptable.
Planting depth: plant at the same depth the tree grew in its nursery container. Set the root flare at or just above soil grade. Deep planting is the most common mistake — it suffocates roots and causes slow decline.
Installation steps:
- Dig the hole 2–3 times the width of the root ball, equal depth.
- Set the tree straight — use a level or straight stake to verify the central leader is vertical before backfilling.
- Backfill with native soil, amended if needed.
- Water with 5–8 gallons at planting.
- Apply 2–3 inches of gravel or wood chip mulch. Keep mulch off the trunk.
A tip on alignment: Blue Arrow’s narrow, vertical form makes misalignment visible from a distance. If planting a row, stretch a string line between two corner stakes and align every tree to it. A 2-inch error in a row of 10 Blue Arrow plants is noticeable 30 feet away.
Blue Arrow juniper care
Watering
Water deeply once per week during the first growing season — 5–8 gallons per tree. Reduce to every 10–14 days in year 2. After year 2, established Blue Arrow junipers are among the most drought-tolerant evergreens available. In the western US, they often need no irrigation after establishment beyond 12 inches of annual rainfall.
In the eastern US, water during dry spells (2+ weeks without rain) even for established plants. Sustained drought weakens junipers and makes them more susceptible to spider mites and bagworms.
Fertilizing
Blue Arrow junipers in average soil need little or no fertilizer once established. One light application of a balanced slow-release fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar) in early spring is optional for young trees in poor soil. Avoid heavy fertilization — it produces rapid, weak growth and may cause foliage to become more green than blue.
In alkaline soils (pH above 7.5), apply iron chelate or sulfur to maintain good blue foliage color and prevent chlorosis.
Pruning
No regular pruning is needed. Blue Arrow’s columnar form is natural and persistent. The central leader stays dominant without intervention.
If a secondary leader develops (a competing vertical stem from lower on the plant), remove it at its base in late winter. Allowing two leaders creates a wide, open fork that looks out of place on a narrow, columnar tree.
Remove dead or brown branch tips at any time. Do not shear the exterior surface — shearing disrupts the natural form and creates bare patches inside the canopy.
Winter care
Blue Arrow is cold-hardy to Zone 3, but new plantings in Zones 3–5 benefit from a layer of mulch over the root zone before the first freeze. This is especially true in the first winter after fall planting.
In exposed Zones 3–4 locations, apply an anti-desiccant spray (such as Wilt-Pruf) in late fall to reduce moisture loss from foliage during cold, windy winters. This prevents the brownish “winter burn” that can affect newly planted junipers in dry, windy sites.
Common problems with Blue Arrow juniper
Spider mites
Spider mites are the most common pest of Blue Arrow junipers in hot, dry conditions. Look for fine webbing on branch tips and stippled, pale foliage in summer. Knock mites off with a forceful spray of water from a hose, applied to both sides of foliage. Repeat weekly for 2–3 weeks. Insecticidal soap or neem oil handles persistent infestations.
Phomopsis tip blight
A fungal disease that causes gray-brown dieback of branch tips in spring. More common in humid climates and in plantings with poor air circulation. Remove affected tips by pruning 2–3 inches below the discolored tissue. Apply copper fungicide in early spring if tip blight recurs annually.
Bagworms
Bagworms affect Blue Arrow in the same regions where they attack arborvitae — the eastern half of the US. Hand-pick bags in fall and winter. Apply Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) in late May or early June when bags are under 1 inch long.
Winter burn
Brown foliage on the windward side in late winter is winter burn — wind desiccation in frozen soil conditions. Site Blue Arrow out of prevailing winds or install a temporary burlap screen for the first two winters in Zones 3–5.
Using Blue Arrow juniper in US gardens
Blue Arrow’s extreme narrowness makes it suited for uses where other columnar evergreens are too wide:
Side yard screens: a 3-foot wide side yard can accommodate a Blue Arrow screen where no other evergreen fits. Plant them 2 feet from the fence to allow for their 2–3 foot mature width.
Flanking entrances: pair two Blue Arrow junipers at 3–4 feet spacing on either side of a front door or driveway entrance. Their vertical form creates a formal, symmetrical effect.
Accent planting: single specimens provide strong vertical punctuation in mixed borders, particularly effective when contrasted with spreading evergreen shrubs like boxwood. See our Boxwood: Care and Growing Guide for pairing ideas.
Deer-resistant screens: on properties where white-tailed deer destroy arborvitae, Blue Arrow provides a reliable alternative. Pair with other deer-resistant evergreens for complete coverage. Our Evergreen Shrubs guide lists the best deer-resistant options.
A 2023 University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension trial comparing columnar junipers for windbreak and privacy screen performance in the Great Plains ranked Blue Arrow among the top cultivars for deer resistance, drought tolerance, and color consistency — making it a strong choice across the central US.
Sarah Mitchell is a Master Gardener and garden writer based in the Pacific Northwest. She has been growing food and flowers for over 15 years across USDA zones 7 and 8.