How to Plant Bare-Root Strawberries

Why crown depth is everything

Bare-root strawberry planting has one non-negotiable: the crown must sit exactly at soil level. Too deep, and the crown rots. Too shallow, and the roots dry out before the plant establishes. Everything else about bare-root strawberry planting is secondary to getting this right.

The crown is the dense, woody growth point at the junction of the roots and stems. It looks like a small, light-colored nub — roots trail below it, leaves emerge from above. In the ground, the crown sits at the surface, protected but not buried.

Choosing bare-root strawberry plants

Bare-root strawberries ship from nurseries January through April. Most are field-grown dormant crowns, dug and stored cold until shipping.

June-bearing vs day-neutral

For most US home gardens: June-bearing varieties produce the largest yields and are the best choice for preserving or freezing. ‘Earliglow’, ‘Chandler’, ‘Honeoye’, and ‘Allstar’ are widely adapted and reliable.

For mild climates (Pacific Coast, Zone 8-9): Day-neutral types like ‘Seascape’ and ‘Albion’ produce well in cool summers and avoid the dormancy trigger that limits June-bearers.

What good bare-root crowns look like

• Firm, white-to-tan crown with no soft spots
• Roots at least 4-6 inches long, not shriveled
• 2-4 small leaves or leaf buds emerging from the crown
• No mold or rot on the roots

Problem crowns: Dark, mushy crowns (discard), very short stubs of roots (will struggle), crowns with no visible bud (may not break dormancy).

Timing by zone

Key point: Strawberries prefer a cool establishment period. Planting in warm soil (above 75°F) stresses plants. Northern zones should plant as early as possible in spring; southern zones plant in fall or very early spring.

Soil and site preparation

Strawberries need:

• Full sun: 8+ hours of direct sun daily. Fewer hours means fewer fruit.
• Well-draining soil: Standing water kills strawberry roots. If your site stays wet, build raised beds or mound rows 6-8 inches above grade.
• pH 5.5-6.5: Slightly acidic. Test soil before planting; adjust with sulfur (to lower) or lime (to raise).
• No recent nightshades: Avoid soil where tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, or eggplant grew in the last 3 years — these share soilborne diseases with strawberries.

Soil preparation:

1. Till or dig the bed 10-12 inches deep.
2. Work in 3-4 inches of compost.
3. Rake level and let settle for 2-3 days before planting.

For bed construction ideas, see our raised bed garden plans.

How to plant bare-root strawberries: step by step

Step 1: Soak the roots

If crowns arrived dry or roots look shriveled, soak them root-side down in water for 1-2 hours before planting. Do not soak longer than 4 hours.

If crowns arrived moist and roots look plump, plant directly. Avoid leaving bare-root crowns sitting in open air — exposure dries the fine root hairs within hours.

Step 2: Make a planting hole

Dig each hole wide enough to spread roots without folding or crowding. Make a small mound of soil in the center of the hole — the roots will drape over this mound, fanning outward and downward.

The mound height determines crown depth: adjust it until the crown will sit exactly at soil level when roots rest against the mound.

Step 3: Set the plant

Place the crown on top of the mound. Spread roots downward and outward around the mound. Roots should not fold back up, curl, or bunch. A well-planted strawberry looks like an octopus — crown at center, roots radiating outward and down.

Check crown depth: use a straight stick or small board laid across the hole to confirm the crown is at soil level.

Step 4: Fill and firm

Fill in around the roots with soil. Firm gently around each plant to eliminate air pockets — press with your hands, not your foot (foot pressure compacts too heavily).

Double-check that the crown is still at soil level after firming. Soil settles, so it’s fine to leave the crown very slightly above grade — it will settle into position.

Step 5: Water thoroughly

Water immediately after planting. Soak the soil to 6-8 inches. This first watering settles soil around roots and is critical for establishment.

Spacing

Matted-row planting lets runners root freely between plants, filling rows over 1-2 seasons. This is the traditional method for June-bearers. Hill system removes all runners and keeps individual plants in a grid — produces larger fruit, requires annual replanting.

First-year care

Remove all flowers for 6-8 weeks

This is the hardest part. Pinch off every flower bud that appears in the first 6-8 weeks after planting. The goal is roots and runners, not fruit. Plants that are allowed to fruit in the first season often produce poorly in year two.

After week 8, let day-neutral varieties flower and fruit if they are growing well. June-bearing varieties won’t produce a main crop in their planting year regardless — their flower set is triggered by the long days of late spring.

Watering

Strawberries need consistent moisture during establishment — 1-2 inches per week. Do not let the soil dry out in the first month.

Once established, water 1 inch per week. Overhead watering during fruiting increases gray mold (botrytis). Drip irrigation at the root zone is ideal during fruiting.

Mulch

Apply 2-3 inches of straw mulch around plants after they are established (2-3 weeks after planting). Mulch retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and keeps fruit off soil. Straw is traditional — do not use hay (contains weed seeds).

In Zones 5 and colder, mulch plants in late fall with 4-6 inches of straw after the ground freezes to prevent frost heaving through winter.

Fertilizer

At planting, work a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) into the bed at label rates. Do not over-fertilize with nitrogen — excessive nitrogen produces large, leafy plants with poor fruit set.

After the first harvest (June-bearing) or in late summer (day-neutral), apply a light nitrogen fertilizer to support runner and plant development into fall.

Runner management

June-bearing strawberries send out runners that root to form new plants. Managing runners is the key to long-term productivity:

• Matted-row system: Allow runners to root freely within designated row width. Remove runners that exceed row bounds. Beds thin themselves out naturally and need renovation every 3-4 years.
• Hill system: Remove all runners. Each plant stays individual. Higher first-year yield, but labor-intensive.

For companion planting around the strawberry bed, see our strawberry companion plants guide. For spacing details as the bed matures, see our spacing for strawberry plants guide.

What can go wrong

Crown rot

Cause: Crown planted too deep, or soil stays wet. Fix: Replant with crown at soil level. Improve drainage before replanting. Discard rotted crowns — they don’t recover.

Frost heaving

Cause: Freeze-thaw cycles push plants out of soil. Fix: Firm plants back in immediately when you see heaving. Mulch in fall prevents this.

Poor fruit set in year one

Cause: Normal for June-bearers, or from allowing too many runners without removing flowers. Fix: Year two with good root establishment produces full crops. Be patient.

Runner-free plants (day-neutral types)

Day-neutral varieties produce fewer runners than June-bearers. Some produce almost none. This is normal — they put energy into continuous fruiting instead.

Buying bare-root strawberries

Reliable sources for bare-root crowns:

• Nourse Farms (Massachusetts) — wide June-bearing selection, certified disease-free
• Raintree Nursery (Washington) — Pacific Northwest focus, good day-neutral selection
• Burgess Seed and Plant — low-cost, ships widely
• Local cooperative extension services often list regionally tested varieties

Order early — bare-root strawberry stock sells out by February for March shipping. Most suppliers ship at the appropriate planting time for your zone, but confirm before ordering.

For a full guide to growing strawberries from establishment through harvest, see how to grow strawberries.